The history of the “Frutta Martorana”
Every year, as the feast of November 2 approaches, every Sicilian pastry shop is a triumph of martorana fruit, which is displayed with skill and art in the shop window. These sweets, made with the precious almond paste also known as “Pasta Reale – Royal paste” (because it was also given as a gift to Ferdinand, King of the Two Sicilies), perfectly imitates fruits and vegetables albeit on a small scale. Small works of art, masterpieces that arise from the imagination and skill of master pastry chefs.
It is interesting to know the genesis of the name of this typical Sicilian dessert. All the sources agree that it was prepared by the nuns of the convent of the church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio known as San Nicolò dei Greci which overlooks Piazza Bellini. It seems that inside the convent there was a garden so beautiful and rich in fruit trees that the nuns who cared for it were very proud of it. Their pride intrigued the bishop of that time, Pope Clement V, who wanted to go and see for himself. When the visit took place, however, it was late autumn and the trees were naturally stripped of those splendid fruits. In order not to disappoint the expectations of the Holy Visitor, the nuns decided to simulate the fruits with almond paste, adorn the trees and thus embellish the garden.
It was in 1193 that Goffredo and Aloisia de Marturano had a Benedictine convent built next to the church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio and since then, in his honour, the whole complex has been called the “Church of the Martorana”. That is why the sweets prepared by the nuns are known as “martorana fruit”. The imagination of Sicilian master confectioners has expanded the range of shapes reproduced. Not only fruit but also cakes in the form of vegetables, bread with meusa, fish, fried eggs etc.. The martorana fruit is a real gem with a refined and delicate taste. Preparing it is not too difficult, just arm yourself with a lot of patience and leave free rein to your artistic inspiration.
If you are interested, you can read our recipe here and try yourself!
Thank you for the explanation of the Martorana pastry. My Italian teacher at Ansonua High in CT was Mr. HENRY Martoran